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M

mrsmith

Member
Sep 18, 2022
17
I'm in Australia and decided on scuba/N.
I'm finding it impossible to find the adapter needed to fit diving regulator to N cylinder. Here the cylinders are 'Type 50' Connectors i think.
Anyone know what adapter I should use?.
Maybe where to get one too?

Anyone in Aus able to share info on where/how they got their scuba kit?
BTW, I have this
From when I considered ext bag. I read you can use a barb connector to conect the diving regulator to something like this?
So you only use 2nd stage diving regulator to this but how would this setup be on-demand N supply when the above linked regulatory continous supply?

I would be extremely grateful for any help
Thanks so much
 
Last edited:
imsorryeveryone

imsorryeveryone

Member
May 10, 2025
12
i'm in the same boat, please let me know if you work this out
 
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locked*n*loaded

locked*n*loaded

Archangel
Apr 15, 2022
8,947
I know this doesn't help you figure out what adapter to use to connect the hose that comes with the kit you linked to the regulator coming off the hood you bought. To find an adapter for what you linked, you would need to know the type and size of the small fitting on the end of the black hose in your link, AND the type and size fitting on the regulator on your hood.

"Most" people just cut the regulator off the hood. Then you'd cut the small fitting off the black hose that comes with the kit you linked. Then you'd find a barb that fits the inner diameter of each hose and join them together. The other end of the black hose simply screws onto the regulator/flowmeter in the kit you linked. It will NOT be an "on demand" nitrogen setup, but a continuous flow one at 15 LPM, which is what you'd set the flowmeter to.

If this isn't what you want/need, just disregard.

I've never seen a regulator like the one in your link with a floating ball-type flowmeter incorporated onto it. It only has one gauge which is throwing me a bit. Regulators normally have 2 gauges. I'm not sure that isn't just a flowmeter, and they're just calling it a regulator. If it is just a flowmeter, you would need a regulator first on the tank and then connect the flowmeter to the regulator. The type50 connector on the device that connects straight to the tank confuses me a bit.

This is how it "normally" is done in the link below:

https://sanctioned-suicide.net/threads/eebd-hood-setup-for-dummies-like-me.143980/
 
M

mrsmith

Member
Sep 18, 2022
17
Hi
Thanks for replying.
I actually
I know this doesn't help you figure out what adapter to use to connect the hose that comes with the kit you linked to the regulator coming off the hood you bought. To find an adapter for what you linked, you would need to know the type and size of the small fitting on the end of the black hose in your link, AND the type and size fitting on the regulator on your hood.

"Most" people just cut the regulator off the hood. Then you'd cut the small fitting off the black hose that comes with the kit you linked. Then you'd find a barb that fits the inner diameter of each hose and join them together. The other end of the black hose simply screws onto the regulator/flowmeter in the kit you linked. It will NOT be an "on demand" nitrogen setup, but a continuous flow one at 15 LPM, which is what you'd set the flowmeter to.

If this isn't what you want/need, just disregard.

I've never seen a regulator like the one in your link with a floating ball-type flowmeter incorporated onto it. It only has one gauge which is throwing me a bit. Regulators normally have 2 gauges. I'm not sure that isn't just a flowmeter, and they're just calling it a regulator. If it is just a flowmeter, you would need a regulator first on the tank and then connect the flowmeter to the regulator. The type50 connector on the device that connects straight to the tank confuses me a bit.

This is how it "normally" is done in the link below:

https://sanctioned-suicide.net/threads/eebd-hood-setup-for-dummies-like-me.143980/

Hi
Thanks for replying.
I actually got this regulator because I saw it here somewhere and thought it would work.
It screws onto Australian N cylinders with type 50 connector.
It can be adjusted 0–30LPM.
Now I'm confused if this is a regulator or flow meter but it does state it is a regulator.
As long as it supplies 25LPM for EEBD or 15 for Ebag that should suffice right?
BTW, if I cut both hoses and connect through double barb connector(and clamps), would it hold under pressure?
I wonder if there's something additional I can use like a super tough strength tape around the barb in addition to clamps?
 
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locked*n*loaded

locked*n*loaded

Archangel
Apr 15, 2022
8,947
As long as it supplies 25LPM for EEBD or 15 for Ebag that should suffice right?
It certainly should suffice. It just confounds me (a little) why there's only one gauge.

TW, if I cut both hoses and connect through double barb connector(and clamps), would it hold under pressure?
Yeah, you're only dealing with very low outlet pressure, so no issues. You won't need any tape. The barb should fit snuggly inside the hoses. May not even need clamps, but I'd use them anyway. My mom's O2 generator (6 to 8 lpm) just had a push-on barb connector for the hose - no clamps. It's really not much pressure.

There may be an adapter out there somewhere, idk. I have no idea how to find it, though. It would most likely be a brass fitting with the same thread-type as the screw-on fitting on the hose (and whatever sealing surface), and with the other side the same threads as on your hood regulator (which I don't believe you've ever shown close-up in a photo).
 
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M

mrsmith

Member
Sep 18, 2022
17
II
I'm in Australia and decided on scuba/N.
I'm finding it impossible to find the adapter needed to fit diving regulator to N cylinder. Here the cylinders are 'Type 50' Connectors i think.
Anyone know what adapter I should use?.
Maybe where to get one too?

Anyone in Aus able to share info on where/how they got their scuba kit?
BTW, I have this
From when I considered ext bag. I read you can use a barb connector to conect the diving regulator to something like this?
So you only use 2nd stage diving regulator to this but how would this setup be on-demand N supply when the above linked regulatory continous supply?

I would be extremely grateful for any help
Thanks so much

It certainly should suffice. It just confounds me (a little) why there's only one gauge.


Yeah, you're only dealing with very low outlet pressure, so no issues. You won't need any tape. The barb should fit snuggly inside the hoses. May not even need clamps, but I'd use them anyway. My mom's O2 generator (6 to 8 lpm) just had a push-on barb connector for the hose - no clamps. It's really not much pressure.

There may be an adapter out there somewhere, idk. I have no idea how to find it, though. It would most likely be a brass fitting with the same thread-type as the screw-on fitting on the hose (and whatever sealing surface), and with the other side the same threads as on your hood regulator (which I don't believe you've ever shown close-up in a photo).
I'm wondering if a 2 stage N regulator is better than the 1 stage 1 I got.
Apparently they hold their pressure steady better.
The only 2 stage ones I currently see don't have a flow meter built in, maybe buy it separately but then are they compatible with each other?
 
gottacheckout

gottacheckout

Specialist
May 20, 2025
338
The round dial is gauge for tank pressure. The upright one with the ball is for output pressure.

I've used both and actually did some welding for people who drive around in black suburbans and they specifically requested/demanded we use the floating ball type from a specific manufacturer. Those regulators were $$$ but they are really nice. They were written into the contract so we really didn't buy them.

I serviced scuba gear for a local shop. The usual output pressure from a scuba first stage is 150 psi +/- 10 psi. That's general there are a few that run higher or lower. I can't remember seeing any inert gas regulators that can even come close to that. Basically I don't think you can go from an insert gas valve to scuba second stage.

There is a thread in the last couple months that shows what the adapter is to go from the din connection to inert gas valve.

Are you going to use a full face mask?
 
locked*n*loaded

locked*n*loaded

Archangel
Apr 15, 2022
8,947
II



I'm wondering if a 2 stage N regulator is better than the 1 stage 1 I got.
Apparently they hold their pressure steady better.
The only 2 stage ones I currently see don't have a flow meter built in, maybe buy it separately but then are they compatible with each other?
Does a 2 stage hold pressure more stable? Idk. You can certainly do that if it gives you better peace of mind. The flowmeter will have specs that tell you what pressure it can handle. Come to think of it, though, those click "dial-type" regulator/flowmeter "combo" devices only have one gauge on them, at least the one's I've seen. If you go the separate flowmeter route, along with the 2-stage regulator, make sure the flowmeter goes up to, at least, 25 lpm, I think.
 
M

mrsmith

Member
Sep 18, 2022
17
I actually changed from SCBA to EEBD
The round dial is gauge for tank pressure. The upright one with the ball is for output pressure.

I've used both and actually did some welding for people who drive around in black suburbans and they specifically requested/demanded we use the floating ball type from a specific manufacturer. Those regulators were $$$ but they are really nice. They were written into the contract so we really didn't buy them.

I serviced scuba gear for a local shop. The usual output pressure from a scuba first stage is 150 psi +/- 10 psi. That's general there are a few that run higher or lower. I can't remember seeing any inert gas regulators that can even come close to that. Basically I don't think you can go from an insert gas valve to scuba second stage.

There is a thread in the last couple months that shows what the adapter is to go from the din connection to inert gas valve.

Are you going to use a full face mask?
I actually changed from scba to eebd about a month ago.
I have sorted everything but then I read about 2 stage regulators(relevant to any N method I guess) being more accurate.
Apparently 1 stage regulators particularly as the tank pressure goes down, will show an increase in pressure output(going to end/exit B etc). I was concerned if this was something to worry about since human tissue is fragile.
I'm not sure what to do with this thread since I changed methods, also does anyone know where this should be placed?
I have trouble viewing screens, concentrating atm so pls excuse any errors you come across.
Does a 2 stage hold pressure more stable? Idk. You can certainly do that if it gives you better peace of mind. The flowmeter will have specs that tell you what pressure it can handle. Come to think of it, though, those click "dial-type" regulator/flowmeter "combo" devices only have one gauge on them, at least the one's I've seen. If you go the separate flowmeter route, along with the 2-stage regulator, make sure the flowmeter goes up to, at least, 25 lpm, I think.
The other bit of info I came across was that dial type flow meters are quite inaccurate, they apparently use a calibrated estimate to set/read flow rate where as boppin type(tube with ball) is a direct pressure reading. Ultimately does it matter? I know not
 
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